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11/08/2024
Level of difficulty
This pair of socks is knitted toe-up, so it’s totally customizable. It uses an after-thought heel, which is easy to replace when worn out.
MATERIAL
100 g / 3.52 oz of Lucky Feet - color 9172
1 kit of 4 or 5 dpns (double-pointed needles) size 2. You can also use a long circular needle size 2 with two magic loops; in this case, ignore references to dpns.
1 fine tapestry needle to graft stitches and hide ends.
You should know how to cast on stitches invisibly to begin a sock by the toe (we recommend Judy’s magic cast-on), how to bind off stitches in a loose and stretchy way and how to graft stitches.
Abbreviations
BOR = beginning of round
dpn(s) = double pointed needle(s)
k = knit
k2tog = knit two stitches together.
kfb = knit one stitch from the front and the back (1 stitch increased)
p = purl
ssk = slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip another stitch knitwise, insert the left needle through the front of the 2 slipped stitches and knit them together.
st = stitch, stitches
Gauge
2 inches = 13 st × 19 rounds
Sizes: 12, 13, 3 [children] (6, 9, 11 [women]), 8, 10, 12 [men]
Sock Length: 7, 8, 8½ (8½, 9½, 10¼), 9½, 10¼, 10¾ inches
Sock circumference: 6¼, 6½, 7½ (7¾, 8½, 9¼) 8½, 9¼, 9¾ inches
Execution
TOE
Using Judy’s magic cast-on (or any other method that you prefer), cast on a total of 20, 22, 24 (24, 24, 24) 24, 24, 24 st on two dpns [10, 11, 12 (11, 12, 12) 12, 12, 12 st on each dpn].
Note: First half of stitches: instep. Next half of stiches: sole
Round 1: knit.
Round 2: k1, kfb, k to last 2 st, kfb, k1, repeat from
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until you get 40, 44, 48 (52, 56, 60) 56, 60, 64 st total.
As soon as you get to 32 st total, it’s easier to distribute your stitches evenly on all dpns. Mark the beginning of the rounds with a marker/piece of thread in the first st.
K 1 round.
Note: First half of stitches: instep. Next half of stiches: sole
Customization note: try the sock on to check if the circumference is ok before going on.
FOOT
Moss stitch:
Rounds 1 and 2: k1, p1, repeat from until end of instep. Knit sole stitches.
Rounds 3 and 4: p1, k1, repeat from until end of instep. Knit sole stitches.
Repeat these 4 rounds for 44, 54, 54 (50, 56, 64) 56, 60, 60 rounds or until the sock reaches the beginning of the leg. End with an odd round.
Next Round: Make the corresponding even round but knit just the instep. Use a piece of waste yarn (preferably cotton or other slippery yarn in a distinct color but similar thickness) to knit the sole st. Return to the end of instep and knit the sole again with the working yarn.
The waste yarn will hold the heel stitches together until it’s time to make the heel.
LEG
Rounds 1 and 2: k1, p1, repeat from until end of instep. Knit sole stitches.
Rounds 3 and 4: k2, p1, k1, repeat from until 2 st to end of instep; k2. Knit sole stitches.
Rounds 5 and 6: k4, k1, p1, repeat from until 4 st to end of instep; k4. Knit sole stitches.
Rounds 7 and 8: k6, p1, k1, repeat from until 6 st to end of instep; k6. Knit sole stitches.
Follow this same pattern reducing the number of moss stitches until all the stitches are knitted plain.
Next 8, 8, 8 (10, 10, 10) 12, 12, 12 rounds: k (You can knit more or less rounds if you want a longer or shorter leg)
Next 20 rounds: k2, p2, repeat from
Bind off loosely.
HEEL
With one dpn, pick up stitches along the bottom of the waste yarn. With another dpn, pick up stitches above the waste yarn. Now you have 40, 44, 48 (52, 56, 60) 56, 60, 64 st total on your dpns. You can reorganize them as you wish. Mark BOR (always between instep and sole stitches). Carefully remove the waste yarn.
Setup round: Knit. When you get to the gap between sole and leg stitches, pick up 1 additional twisted st. Repeat on the other side. Now shape the heel:
Round 1: k1, ssk, k to 3 st before end of the first half of heel, k2tog, k1, repeat from
Round 2: k
Repeat these two rounds until you have 5, 5, 5 (9, 9, 9) 9, 9, 9 st between decreases. Graft sole stitches to leg stitches to finish off the heel.
With a thin tapestry needle, hide your ends.
Designer: Círculo Studio
Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern.
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