LuckyFeet Socks
- Círculo Studio
- Mar 25, 2024
- 7 min read
Updated: Mar 28

Level of difficulty

Sizes: XS (6.5"), S(7'), M(8"), L(9")
Material
Círculo Lucky Feet Yarn- 1 hank,
color 3274
Crochet Hook 2 mm/3 mm
Scissors
Gauge: 4” square: 28 sc x 24 rows on US B-1(2.25mm)
XS (6.5" circumference)
Cuff:
Start by chaining 7 + 3; make 1 DC into the 4th chain from the hook, then DC across.
Chain 3, turn your work, and make 1 DC in the back loop only of each stitch across the row.
Repeat row 2 instructions for a total of 28 rows (~10.5 inches or until it measures the same as the circumference of your ankle and you can take it off through your heel).
Join the last and first rows with SC, being careful not to twist the work.
Turn the piece so the seam is on the inside.
Now you’re going to work in rounds perpendicular to the cuff.
Chain 3, make 2 DC into the side of each row of the cuff until the end of the row; slst into the 1st stitch to close the round.
Chain 3 and, without turning your work, DC into each stitch until the end of the round, then slst into the 1st stitch.
Make a total of 8 rows following the instructions above to create the leg.
Heel:
On the 9th round, chain 40 and fold the sock in half, then slst into the 20th stitch.
Now you’re going to make the heel with DCs in the back loops, working flat.
After joining the chain to the middle of the round, choose a direction to crochet the heel and make 2 slip stitches in 2 DCs, going away from the chains (to create the height of one DC).
Make 1 DC in each chain until you reach the other side, then slst into the 2nd DC from the side.
Continue following these instructions until you run out of space to make more rows.
Fold this heel flap in the middle and sew it closed with SCs on the inside of the work. Cut the yarn and weave in the end.
Foot:
Join the yarn to the last row of the leg. Chain 3 and make 1 DC into each stitch and each chain (from the foundation chain of the heel), then slst into the 1st stitch to join the round.
Make 16 rows with regular DC in the round.
From rows 17-25, make 1 or 2 decreases on each side of the round (so they align with the sides of your feet) to shape the toe.
Fold the sock and sew the toe using SCs on the inside. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.
Repeat the process to make the second sock
S (7” circumference)
Cuff:
Start by chaining 8 + 3; make 1 DC into the 4th chain from the hook, DC across.
Chain 3, turn your work, and make 1 DC in the back loop only of each stitch across the row.
Repeat row 2 instructions for a total of 30 rows (~11 inches or until it measures the same as the circumference of your ankle and you can take it off through your heel).
Join the last and first rows with SC, being careful not to twist the work.
Turn the piece so the seam is on the inside.
Now you’re going to work in rounds perpendicular to the cuff.
Chain 3, make 2 DC into the side of each row of the cuff until the end of the row; slst into the 1st stitch to close the round.
Chain 3 and, without turning your work, DC into each stitch until the end of the round, then slst into the 1st stitch.
Make a total of 9 rows following the instructions above to create the leg.
Heel:
On the 10th round, chain 44 and fold the sock in half, then slst into the 22nd stitch.
Now you’re going to make the heel with DCs in the back loops, working flat.
After joining the chain to the middle of the round, choose a direction to crochet the heel and make 2 slip stitches in 2 DCs, going away from the chains (to create the height of one DC).
Make 1 DC in each chain until you reach the other side, then slst into the 2nd DC from the side.
Continue following these instructions until you run out of space to make more rows.
Fold this heel flap in the middle and sew it closed with SCs on the inside of the work. Cut the yarn and weave in the end.
Foot:
Join the yarn to the last row of the leg. Chain 3 and make 1 DC into each stitch and each chain (from the foundation chain of the heel), then slst into the 1st stitch to join the round.
Make 18 rows with regular DC in the round.
From rows 19-27, make 1 or 2 decreases on each side of the round (so they align with the sides of your feet) to shape the toe.
Fold the sock and sew the toe using SCs on the inside. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.
Repeat the process to make the second sock.
M (8” circumference)
Cuff:
Start by chaining 9 + 3; make 1 DC into the 4th chain from the hook, DC across.
Chain 3, turn your work, and make 1 DC in the back loop only of each stitch across the row.
Repeat row 2 instructions for a total of 32 rows (~11.5 inches or until it measures the same as the circumference of your ankle and you can take it off through your heel).
Join the last and first rows with SC, being careful not to twist the work.
Turn the piece so the seam is on the inside.
Now you’re going to work in rounds perpendicular to the cuff.
Chain 3, make 2 DC into the side of each row of the cuff until the end of the row; slst into the 1st stitch to close the round.
Chain 3 and, without turning your work, DC into each stitch until the end of the round, then slst into the 1st stitch.
Make a total of 10 rows following the instructions above to create the leg.
Heel:
On the 11th round, chain 48 and fold the sock in half, then slst into the 24th stitch.
Now you’re going to make the heel with DCs in the back loops, working flat.
After joining the chain to the middle of the round, choose a direction to crochet the heel and make 2 slip stitches in 2 DCs, going away from the chains (to create the height of one DC).
Make 1 DC in each chain until you reach the other side, then slst into the 2nd DC from the side.
Continue following these instructions until you run out of space to make more rows.
Fold this heel flap in the middle and sew it closed with SCs on the inside of the work. Cut the yarn and weave in the end.
Foot:
Join the yarn to the last row of the leg. Chain 3 and make 1 DC into each stitch and each chain (from the foundation chain of the heel), then slst into the 1st stitch to join the round.
Make 20 rows with regular DC in the round.
From rows 21-29, make 1 or 2 decreases on each side of the round (so they align with the sides of your feet) to shape the toe.
Fold the sock and sew the toe using SCs on the inside. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.
Repeat the process to make the second sock.
L (9” circumference)
Cuff:
Start by chaining 10 + 3; make 1 DC into the 4th chain from the hook, DC across.
Chain 3, turn your work, and make 1 DC in the back loop only of each stitch across the row.
Repeat row 2 instructions for a total of 34 rows (~12 inches or until it measures the same as the circumference of your ankle and you can take it off through your heel).
Join the last and first rows with SC, being careful not to twist the work.
Turn the piece so the seam is on the inside.
Now you’re going to work in rounds perpendicular to the cuff.
Chain 3, make 2 DC into the side of each row of the cuff until the end of the row; slst into the 1st stitch to close the round.
Chain 3 and, without turning your work, DC into each stitch until the end of the round, then slst into the 1st stitch.
Make a total of 11 rows following the instructions above to create the leg.
Heel:
9. On the 12th round, chain 52 and fold the sock in half, then slst into the 26th stitch.
Now you’re going to make the heel with DCs in the back loops, working flat.
After joining the chain to the middle of the round, choose a direction to crochet the heel and make 2 slip stitches in 2 DCs, going away from the chains (to create the height of one DC).
Make 1 DC in each chain until you reach the other side, then slst into the 2nd DC from the side.
Continue following these instructions until you run out of space to make more rows.
12. Fold this heel flap in the middle and sew it closed with SCs on the inside of the work. Cut the yarn and weave in the end.
Foot:
Make 22 rows with regular DC in the round.
From rows 23-31, make 1 or 2 decreases on each side of the round to shape the toe.
Fold the sock and sew the toe using SCs on the inside. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.
Repeat the process to make the second sock
Created by: Milena Miranda
Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern.
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